Free Patterns · Holiday and Occasion · Valentine’s Day

Candygram Bunny

Here it is, the LAST of my candygram patterns. There are FIVE of these little Valentines – a cat, bear, dinomonster, unicorn and bunny. Quite a varied group which is great if you need to whip up a bunch of these and even if you don’t need to make a bunch, you’ll probably want to!

I was originally going to only make four, but I couldn’t stop thinking about how sweet a little bunny would be mixed up in this group. I finally allowed myself to make just one more. Then I really had to put a hard stop on these because I seriously could have kept going for who knows how long. If you haven’t started making these yet, I think you will be pleasantly surprised by how quickly they come together and how addicting they are. It’s fun to see the different characters take shape and when I lay them out all together, it’s cute overload.

Before I jump into the pattern, the two bunnies I have pictured throughout this post are made slightly differently – the pink one has ears worked into the front and back panels that are stitched together. If you can’t tell from the pictures, the ears are more sturdy and do an excellent job standing straight up. Because they are made using two panels, it’s really easy to quickly embroider some lines along the inner ear and keep things looking neat on the back. The second, off-white bunny has ears worked into the front panel only. This one is a tad faster to create and has the added bonus of leaving the ears more on the floppy side. Again, if you can’t tell from the pictures, the ears aren’t totally floppy, but they do have a tendency to curl forward somewhat. Because they are made with only one panel, I chose not to embroider any lines as I didn’t feel like carefully working through the front side of the stitches – which is totally possible, by the way, if you really want to go that route.

OH and I almost forgot – probably the cutest part – the TAIL! I stitched a colorful pom-pom to the back side – this is totally optional, but it’s highly recommended.

Supplies:

  • Small amounts of yarn in various colors to achieve desired look.   I used worsted weight yarn from my stash – primarily Loops & Threads Impeccable yarn
    1. Main Color
    2. Contrasting Color
    3. Heart Color
  • 3.75 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Needle for sewing down yarn tails and stitching panels together
  • Embroidery floss
  • Needle for embroidery details
  • 6 mm safety eyes (optional)
  • Small amount of poly-fil or stuffing of choice
  • Pom-Pom (optional, but should be required!)

Note about supplies:  This project can be easily customized to accommodate supplies you may already have on hand.  Please be mindful of safety and durability when selecting embellishments, especially if you intend to give this to a child.  For example, something like safety eyes or pom-poms could be a choking hazard and you may want to omit those things and embroider eyes instead.  You may also consider gluing googly eyes, using buttons, felt or even puff paint for the details on the face and ears as appropriate.  You could use felt, card stock or foam for the heart instead of crochet.  Scrap yarn would make an excellent filling if you don’t have poly-fil and splitting a strand of yarn is a great substitute for embroidery floss. 

Finished Dimensions:  Finished piece is approximately 5 inches tall  

Abbreviations and stitches used:

  • CH          chain
  • SC           single crochet
  • HDC       half double crochet
  • DC          double crochet       
  • SS            slip stitch
  • TR          treble crochet

Pattern Notes:

The beginning CH 1 or CH 2 at the start of rows does not count as a stitch throughout unless otherwise specified.

The panels are worked in one continuous piece.  In other words, the ears and limbs are crocheted as you make the panel.  You will crochet a rectangle shape and when you get to the instructions for Row 15, you will work around the perimeter of the rectangle and this is when the ears and limbs are created.   The pattern instructions for this row (Row 15) will be broken down into sides (i.e. head, sides, and bottom) as instructions for each side of the rectangle will vary. 

You will make a front and back panel and while similar, they are not exactly the same.  To keep the arms flexible, they are only made on the front panel.  The feet are made on both and stitched together, giving them more stability.  You may choose to stitch the ears onto one or both panels depending on the final look you are wanting to achieve for your particular bunny! They are cute either way.

The panels are whip stitched together and are lightly stuffed before closing off completely.  The limbs need to be whip stitched around (with exception to the arms and ears if only made on one panel) AND the rectangle needs to be closed off to keep the stuffing in that part only.  After stitching around a limb (image 1 below), it is recommended to make 2-3 stitches across the bottom of the limb (i.e. along the perimeter of the rectangle) to close it off (image 2) before continuing to whip stitch around the remainder of the panel. 

The arms (and possibly ears) are only worked on one panel and should be flexible – do not whip stitch around the arms (or ears if applicable)!  Instead, when you reach an arm (or ear), work 2-3 stitches across the base (i.e. along the perimeter of the rectangle) to close it off.  See images below:

Finally, when embroidering details, I find it works best to use a sharp needle and try to make stitches that penetrate through the fibers of the yarn, not in the gaps between crochet stitches.  When making the nose, start with a “V” shape and then make several more lines moving along the top edge ending at the same central point on the bottom.  Then, make one or a couple horizontal lines at the top.  See images below:

Pattern Front Panel:

Using main color

Row 1:  CH 11, SC in second CH from hook and in each remaining CH (10 SC)

Row 2:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across (10 SC)

Row 3-14:  Repeat Row 2

Row 15:  *this Row is worked along the perimeter of the rectangle and will be broken down into sides*

Head:  CH 10, turn and make 2 SC in fourth CH from hook, HDC in next 5 stitches and SC in last.

CH 1, turn and SC, HDC in next four stitches, SC, SS and SS in last stitch.

Do NOT CH, turn and skip the first stitch, SS, SC, SC, HDC, HDC, SC and SC in last (first ear made).

Skip the first two stitches (of Row 14), SS into third stitch, work 4 SC and SS in next stitch (of Row 14)

CH 10, turn and make 2 SC in fourth CH from hook, HDC in next 5 stitches and SC in last.

CH 1, turn and SC, HDC in next four stitches, SC, SS and SS in last stitch.

Do NOT CH, turn and skip the first stitch, SS, SC, SC, HDC, HDC, SC and SC in last (second ear made).

Skip 1 stitch (of Row 14) and SS into last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 1 and work 5 SC along the edge.  SS in next stitch of edge and CH 9.  Work 4 SC in second CH from hook and 1 HDC in next 6 CHs.  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS.  Work 5 SC along edge and make 3SC in last stitch of edge.

Bottom:  Rotate work.  Hint: you should be working in the backside of the starting CH; however, I will refer to these as stitches.  SS into first stitch and CH 7.  DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (first leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches and SS into next.  CH 7 and DC in third CH from hook, make 1 DC in next three CHs (second leg made), skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into the last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  Work 3 SC in first stitch of edge.  SC in next 5 stitches.  SS in next stitch of edge and CH 9.  Work 4 SC in second CH from hook and 1 HDC in next 6 CHs.  Skip 1 stitch along the edge and SS.  Work 5 SC along edge and SS to join.  Break yarn.

Pattern Back Panel:

Using main color

Row 1:  CH 11, SC in second CH from hook and in each remaining CH (10 SC)

Row 2:  CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across (10 SC)

Row 3-14:  Repeat Row 2

Row 15:  *this Row is worked along the perimeter of the rectangle and will be broken down into sides*

For the more floppy style ears (i.e. ears worked on one panel only) continue, keep scrolling if you prefer the sturdy style of ears

Head: CH 1, Turn.  SC in each stitch across. 

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 1 and work 13 SC along the edge and make 3 SC in last stitch of edge.

Bottom:  Rotate work.  Hint: you should be working in the backside of the starting CH; however, I will refer to these as stitches.  SS into first stitch and CH 7.  DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (first leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches and SS into next.  CH 7 and DC in third CH from hook, make 1 DC in next three CHs (second leg made), skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into the last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  Work 3 SC in first stitch of edge and work 13 SC in remaining stitches of edge.  SS to join.  Break yarn.

For the more sturdy ears that can easily be embroidered (i.e. ears worked on two panels continue):

Head:  CH 10, turn and make 2 SC in fourth CH from hook, HDC in next 5 stitches and SC in last.

CH 1, turn and SC, HDC in next four stitches, SC, SS and SS in last stitch.

Do NOT CH, turn and skip the first stitch, SS, SC, SC, HDC, HDC, SC and SC in last (first ear made).

Skip the first to stitches (of Row 14), SS into third stitch, work 4 SC, SS and

CH 10, turn and make 2 SC in fourth CH from hook, HDC in next 5 stitches and SC in last.

CH 1, turn and SC, HDC in next four stitches, SC, SS and SS in last stitch.

Do NOT CH, turn and skip the first stitch, SS, SC, SC, HDC, HDC, SC and SC in last (second ear made).

Skip 1 stitch (of Row 14) and SS into last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  CH 1 and work 13 SC along the edge and make 3 SC in last stitch of edge.

Bottom:  Rotate work.  Hint: you should be working in the backside of the starting CH; however, I will refer to these as stitches.  SS into first stitch and CH 7.  DC in third CH from hook and make 1 DC in next three CHs (first leg made).  Skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into next.  SC in next 2 stitches and SS into next.  CH 7 and DC in third CH from hook, make 1 DC in next three CHs (second leg made), skip 2 stitches (starting CH of Row 1) and SS into the last.

Edge:  Rotate work.  Hint you are working along the edge into the sides of rows; however, I will refer to these spaces as stitches.  Work 3 SC in first stitch of edge and work 13 SC in remaining stitches of edge.  SS to join.  Break yarn.

Pattern Face:

Using contrasting color

Note: you will be working in the front and back loops of the starting CH.

Row 1: CH 5 and work 2 DC in the third CH from hook, CH 2 and SS into next CH (of starting CH), CH 2 and work 4 DC in last CH, CH 2 and SS into next CH (backside of starting CH), CH 2 and work 2 DC in last CH.  SS to join.

Assembly:      

  • Stitch the face onto the right side of the front panel using the long tail. 
  • Using embroidery floss, stitch a nose and whiskers onto the face. See pattern notes for further details.
  • Place safety eyes (if using) and secure the back.  I like my eyes close together and touching the face piece.
  • If you made the sturdy style ears, use the contrasting yarn to embroider several lines for the inner ear of the front panel.
  • Stitch a pom-pom tail onto the right side of the back panel, if using.
  • Place the front and back panels together with the right sides facing to the outside (wrong sides facing the inside) and whip stitch along the perimeter using a long strand of the main color.  You will need to whip stitch around the feet and ears if you made ears on both panels (do not stitch around the arms) and also along the perimeter of the rectangle at the base of the ears, arms and feet.  See pattern notes if you need more clarification.  Before closing the entire piece, insert a small amount of poly-fil and sew shut. 
  • Weave in any remaining ends. 

Pattern Heart:

Using heart color

Round 1:  Magic ring, CH 2, 3 TR, 2 DC, HDC, CH 1, SC, CH 1, HDC, 2 DC, 3 TR, CH 2 and SS into ring.  Pull to close, but don’t tighten all the way just yet.

Round 2:  CH 2, work 3 SC into first stitch, SC and HDC into next stitch, SC in next 4 stitches and SC into CH space, CH 1, DC into next stitch, CH 1, SC into CH space and SC in next 4 stitches, HDC and SC into next, 3 SC into last stitch, CH 2 and SS into the ring again.

Break yarn and leave a long tail for stitching.  Pull ring taught. 

Putting It All Together:

Before proceeding, you should have an idea of what you will be inserting. Though, honestly, these are adorable Valentine’s on their own!

You may choose to stitch the hearts directly onto the body and make a stitch or two on the hands to pin them in place as if holding the heart.  You may also choose to only stitch a portion of the heart onto the body so you can tuck a small treat like a piece of chocolate or lollipop inside.  You could even stick a fun Valentine themed eraser or pencils inside. I think a special note would also be really sweet. I think it would be super adorable to add a short phrase to a foam heart cutout (think of those candy conversation hearts) and attach that to these candygrams.  There are so many possibilities! 

Now that you’ve seen them all and maybe have even had the opportunity to make one (or several), which is your favorite? Enjoy making these and I would love to see what you make. You can can tag me on Facebook – @shemakescrochet.

You are free to share your finished work, to include selling your finished products, but please credit me – SheMakesCrochet – as the pattern designer. Please do not distribute this pattern or any portion of it, instead direct people to my blog. THANK YOU!

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